Presidential Traverse

"For a little while we are able to see as a child sees, a world of marvels. For a few moments we discover that nothing can be taken for granted... and our journey here on earth, able to see and touch and hear in the midst of tangible and mysterious things-in-themselves, is the most strange and daring of all adventures." - Edward Abbey 

I survived! (Barely) My foray into the Presidential Range of the White Mountains in New Hampshire was without doubt more difficult than I expected. I’m glad that I planned beforehand but I still have much to learn about backpacking.

My first day was the best of the trip, as one can guess. Fresh legs and beautiful weather contribute greatly to a feeling of peace and adventure. I got a late start because of road construction delays, but still managed to get everything situated and hike 7 miles to Mt. Eisenhower Trail as planned. Along the way I climbed three mountains on the AMC list and stopped at the beautiful Mizpah Spring hut.

The initial view I had from the top of Mt. Jackson literally took my breath away. I had forgotten the feeling of being totally inconsequential when compared to the vastness of the wilderness you are staring out across. I just had to laugh a little bit at the thought of it.  Absolute gorgeousness preserved solely for the enjoyment of that moment; space that hopefully will exist and inspire awe in generations to come.

As I hiked on, the weather turned foggy and gave a surreal effect to the last 2 hours of hiking- knowing that hundreds of feet had walked before me, but not seeing a single person. My campsite for the night was a not-so-stealthy stealth site about 0.1 miles down the Mt. Eisenhower trail. I slept well in my Eno Hammock despite temperatures falling into the mid 30’s during the night. Luckily I had been informed prior to heading out about a phenomenon called Cold Butt Syndrome (CBS) and had prepared by bringing a cheap foam pad for insulation.

The next morning I woke bright and early and headed back to the main ridge trail to continue toward Mt. Washington. I had planned 12 miles on my itinerary, according to the information I had gathered through hiking forums, guidebooks and by looking at the topography on the map.

After summiting Mt. Washington- home of crowds and stupidity- it looked as though the trail would be a relatively quick hike, following the ridge and descending slowly. Assuming this was the case I took a lunch break at the summit of Washington and lingered letting my legs take a break as well as refreshing my water supply and ditching some unneeded food.

Unfortunately I was wrong about the North side of the mountain being easy and was instead faced with about 3 hours of rock hopping through a continuous boulder field.

I would not have made it to Valley Way tent site as planned if not for the help of a thru hiker named Heartwood. It is amazing what good conversation can do for a flagging spirit. Meeting her gave me enough energy to go on and I reached Valley Way about thirty minutes after sunset. The 0.6 miles from Madison Spring Hut seemed impossibly long and there were moments when I wondered if I had passed it in the dark. I can’t describe the relief I felt when I saw headlamps in the distance and realized I had finally found the site. I set up my camp as quickly as possible and fell into bed immediately.

I slept in the next morning and descended the 3.8 miles to the Appalachia parking area uneventfully. From there I received a ride back to highland center by a very kind hiker and her daughter, who turned out to be from the same town in New York that I’m from.

This trip had been on my bucket list for while, and I’m glad I completed it successfully. It was challenging and pushed my limits to near breaking at points, but once I had finished I had the desire to return to those moments on the mountains.

Final count- 3 days, 23 miles and 8 mountains. 

Wilderness is a Necessity

"Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out going to the mountains is going home; that wilderness is a necessity.”

-John Muir

I’m very excited to announce that I will be visiting New Hampshire and the White Mountains in just under a week! On the schedule is a 3-day backpacking trip across the Presidential Range. It will definitely be nice to take a few days, get smelly and challenge my leg muscles again.

In many ways I do view this as going home. New Hampshire has made me feel the most at home of all the places I have lived in the past few years. And, although I don’t consider myself nerve-shaken, and very seldom civilized, I do agree with Dear John that the wilderness is a necessity. There is nothing quite like planning a foray into an area that few have truly experienced. Part of the excitement of this trip is the unknowns. Last year I was oblivious to many of the challenges involved with backpacking, but no matter how well I plan, I expect I will still be learning over the course of this hike. I believe there is an unending stream of knowledge in nature, although many times we are too busy or too loud to notice it.

I am taking this trip solo; although not the original plan, I think it will add to the adventure. When I last left you I had just had my first backpacking experience, hiking 9 more mountains on the AMC 4,000 footer list over the course of three days. The final count at the end of Summer 2013 was 20 official 4,000 foot mountains, 3 unofficial. This trip across the Presidential Range will add 8 more official mountains and 1 unofficial. Below is the list:

Mt. Jackson- 4052’

Mt. Pierce- 4310’

Mt. Eisenhower- 4780’

Mt. Franklin- 5001’ (unofficial)

Mt. Monroe- 5372’

Mt. Washington- 6288’

Mt. Jefferson- 5716’

Mt. Adams- 5799’

Mt. Madison- 5367’

My route will take me over the range from the South to the North. Not many people do this direction, but I chose it because the elevation gain is slightly less intense. My trip will also be different in another way: I’m taking multiple days. I haven’t decided if it will be 2 or 3 days. Part of that decision depends on weather and how my legs feel the first day. Many people do the entire range in the course of one day, which is definitely a feat to be admired, but considering I’m not crazy and not nearly as in shape as last year this time, I am planning conservatively, leaving plenty of time for rests and enjoying the scenery.

Depending on the exact trails I take, the estimated distance is between 21 and 23 miles, not counting the distance needed to descend/ascend for camping each night.

I got some very good advice from a hiking forum called Views From the Top (VFTT.com) in regards to camping spots, one of the biggest issues I realized in planning. Much of the route is on the ridgeline, which is great for views if the weather is nice, but bad if the weather turns quickly, which it is known to do. Being on the ridge also means I have to descend to tree line (trees above 8ft) in order to camp per the Forest Service regulations. I will be taking along my new camping hammock to help with the issue of finding flat ground for a tent.

Drool worthy pictures to come after the trip!

The Call of the Wilderness

“Let me transport you to those wild blue mountains,

Though not the loftiest that begirt the land,

They yet sublimely rise, and on their heights

Your souls may have a sweet foretaste of heaven,

And traverse wide the boundless” – Thomas Cole, painter

I love the quote above, because when I read it, I can imagine the sights Cole was envisioning when he penned those words. I recently had a “sweet foretaste of heaven” on a four-day backpacking trip into the Pemigewasset Wilderness. I chose to take this trip solo, and I learned a lot about my surroundings and myself over its course.
During my walk in the woods, I was able to further my goal of climbing the AMC 4,000-foot mountains, and I experienced the views the White Mountain guidebook describes as “unsurpassed”.

My adventure started by climbing Mt. Hale, and then heading down the trail to Zealand Falls Hut and on to Zealand Mountain. Along the way I was able to see various types of lichen, a spruce grouse, the tracks of a moose and enjoy some ripe mountain blueberries.

I spent my first night at Guyot (gee-oh) shelter after having the experience of getting hailed on while summiting a mountain. In the morning, while my gear dried, I took a short day hike to the Bondcliff trail, where I was able to enjoy the sun and the only 360-degree view in the White Mountains with no buildings or roads in sight. Breathtaking!

After my time at Guyot shelter, I traveled over to Garfield Ridge Shelter via the Twinway trail and Galehead Hut. There I got to meet the professionals- thru hikers on the Appalachian Trail who had come up all the way from Georgia- a distance of approximately 1,900 miles. I was able to hear their stories and share a delicious dinner of mashed potatoes and cheddar cheese. When I shared my Starbursts candies as dessert, they introduced me to the concept of “trail magic”- an unwritten code where every hiker looks out for other hikers, through big or small actions.
I got a taste of trail magic my last day, on the Garfield Ridge, when the “trail” became a rock ledge and some kindhearted hikers helped me down by carrying my pack for me.

All in all, my hike was successful. I can’t wait to plan my next backpacking adventure! Over four days, I covered 33 miles, climbed 13 mountains (9 of which were on the AMC 4,000 list) and met many amazing people.

Thanks to all the thru hikers who shared food, coffee, and conversation, and made it possible for me to “traverse wide the boundless”.

The Art of Adventure

 “A man practices the art of adventure when he breaks the chain of routine and renews his life through reading new books, traveling to new places, making new friends, taking up new hobbies and adopting new viewpoints.” — Wilfred Peterson 

Over the past six months, I have been practicing the art of adventure. I recently became one of the Interpretive Rangers at Franconia Notch State Park. Before coming to Franconia Notch, I lived with 35 other young adults in Bear Brook State park, and had the opportunity to develop friendships, teach 4th graders, learn new skills and explore my surroundings. Now, in Franconia, with limited cellphone service and no Internet connection, I have been able read a lot of books as well as pick up a new hobby of hiking.

As part of the moving-in process, and to gain familiarity with the area, I hiked the Franconia Ridge Loop, which includes Mt. Lafayette at 5,260 ft., and Mt. Lincoln at 5,089 ft. In the past, I was never an avid hiker, even needing to be bribed with whoopee pies as a child. But while living in the White Mountains, hiking a few of the peaks was an opportunity I couldn’t pass up. In order to better explore the beautiful sights around me, I chose to pursue hiking, and the challenge that comes with it. My experience on the Franconia Ridge loop was so much fun (even though I got rained on), I now have plans to climb 31 of the 48 AMC 4,000 foot mountains in NH before the summer is over.
In climbing these summits, I have gained new confidence in my abilities, a passion for exploring, and an appreciation for my surroundings. Most recently, I climbed Mt. Moosilauke, by way of Beaver Brook trail. The trail was very arduous, but also followed cascades for nearly a mile and a half. The way also included steep rock faces, wooden staircases, and rock steps.

I chose this route, because I wanted to push my boundaries. I had the whole trail to myself for most of the morning, and when I reached the summit, there were only 5 people present. I felt so successful, and my new 360-degree viewpoint was totally worth the effort.

Since graduating college, I have wanted a job that enabled me to truly experience the areas I tell visitors about, and I am happy to say being an interpretive ranger has provided that opportunity. I love that every time I step outside, I can learn something new, talk to people from various places and backgrounds or explore an interesting spot.
Franconia Notch State Park, and the White Mountains have inspired many artists, visitors and interpreters over the years. It is my hope you will visit, enjoy hiking, sightseeing or an interpretive program and practice your art of adventure!