Presidential Traverse

"For a little while we are able to see as a child sees, a world of marvels. For a few moments we discover that nothing can be taken for granted... and our journey here on earth, able to see and touch and hear in the midst of tangible and mysterious things-in-themselves, is the most strange and daring of all adventures." - Edward Abbey 

I survived! (Barely) My foray into the Presidential Range of the White Mountains in New Hampshire was without doubt more difficult than I expected. I’m glad that I planned beforehand but I still have much to learn about backpacking.

My first day was the best of the trip, as one can guess. Fresh legs and beautiful weather contribute greatly to a feeling of peace and adventure. I got a late start because of road construction delays, but still managed to get everything situated and hike 7 miles to Mt. Eisenhower Trail as planned. Along the way I climbed three mountains on the AMC list and stopped at the beautiful Mizpah Spring hut.

The initial view I had from the top of Mt. Jackson literally took my breath away. I had forgotten the feeling of being totally inconsequential when compared to the vastness of the wilderness you are staring out across. I just had to laugh a little bit at the thought of it.  Absolute gorgeousness preserved solely for the enjoyment of that moment; space that hopefully will exist and inspire awe in generations to come.

As I hiked on, the weather turned foggy and gave a surreal effect to the last 2 hours of hiking- knowing that hundreds of feet had walked before me, but not seeing a single person. My campsite for the night was a not-so-stealthy stealth site about 0.1 miles down the Mt. Eisenhower trail. I slept well in my Eno Hammock despite temperatures falling into the mid 30’s during the night. Luckily I had been informed prior to heading out about a phenomenon called Cold Butt Syndrome (CBS) and had prepared by bringing a cheap foam pad for insulation.

The next morning I woke bright and early and headed back to the main ridge trail to continue toward Mt. Washington. I had planned 12 miles on my itinerary, according to the information I had gathered through hiking forums, guidebooks and by looking at the topography on the map.

After summiting Mt. Washington- home of crowds and stupidity- it looked as though the trail would be a relatively quick hike, following the ridge and descending slowly. Assuming this was the case I took a lunch break at the summit of Washington and lingered letting my legs take a break as well as refreshing my water supply and ditching some unneeded food.

Unfortunately I was wrong about the North side of the mountain being easy and was instead faced with about 3 hours of rock hopping through a continuous boulder field.

I would not have made it to Valley Way tent site as planned if not for the help of a thru hiker named Heartwood. It is amazing what good conversation can do for a flagging spirit. Meeting her gave me enough energy to go on and I reached Valley Way about thirty minutes after sunset. The 0.6 miles from Madison Spring Hut seemed impossibly long and there were moments when I wondered if I had passed it in the dark. I can’t describe the relief I felt when I saw headlamps in the distance and realized I had finally found the site. I set up my camp as quickly as possible and fell into bed immediately.

I slept in the next morning and descended the 3.8 miles to the Appalachia parking area uneventfully. From there I received a ride back to highland center by a very kind hiker and her daughter, who turned out to be from the same town in New York that I’m from.

This trip had been on my bucket list for while, and I’m glad I completed it successfully. It was challenging and pushed my limits to near breaking at points, but once I had finished I had the desire to return to those moments on the mountains.

Final count- 3 days, 23 miles and 8 mountains. 

Wilderness is a Necessity

"Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out going to the mountains is going home; that wilderness is a necessity.”

-John Muir

I’m very excited to announce that I will be visiting New Hampshire and the White Mountains in just under a week! On the schedule is a 3-day backpacking trip across the Presidential Range. It will definitely be nice to take a few days, get smelly and challenge my leg muscles again.

In many ways I do view this as going home. New Hampshire has made me feel the most at home of all the places I have lived in the past few years. And, although I don’t consider myself nerve-shaken, and very seldom civilized, I do agree with Dear John that the wilderness is a necessity. There is nothing quite like planning a foray into an area that few have truly experienced. Part of the excitement of this trip is the unknowns. Last year I was oblivious to many of the challenges involved with backpacking, but no matter how well I plan, I expect I will still be learning over the course of this hike. I believe there is an unending stream of knowledge in nature, although many times we are too busy or too loud to notice it.

I am taking this trip solo; although not the original plan, I think it will add to the adventure. When I last left you I had just had my first backpacking experience, hiking 9 more mountains on the AMC 4,000 footer list over the course of three days. The final count at the end of Summer 2013 was 20 official 4,000 foot mountains, 3 unofficial. This trip across the Presidential Range will add 8 more official mountains and 1 unofficial. Below is the list:

Mt. Jackson- 4052’

Mt. Pierce- 4310’

Mt. Eisenhower- 4780’

Mt. Franklin- 5001’ (unofficial)

Mt. Monroe- 5372’

Mt. Washington- 6288’

Mt. Jefferson- 5716’

Mt. Adams- 5799’

Mt. Madison- 5367’

My route will take me over the range from the South to the North. Not many people do this direction, but I chose it because the elevation gain is slightly less intense. My trip will also be different in another way: I’m taking multiple days. I haven’t decided if it will be 2 or 3 days. Part of that decision depends on weather and how my legs feel the first day. Many people do the entire range in the course of one day, which is definitely a feat to be admired, but considering I’m not crazy and not nearly as in shape as last year this time, I am planning conservatively, leaving plenty of time for rests and enjoying the scenery.

Depending on the exact trails I take, the estimated distance is between 21 and 23 miles, not counting the distance needed to descend/ascend for camping each night.

I got some very good advice from a hiking forum called Views From the Top (VFTT.com) in regards to camping spots, one of the biggest issues I realized in planning. Much of the route is on the ridgeline, which is great for views if the weather is nice, but bad if the weather turns quickly, which it is known to do. Being on the ridge also means I have to descend to tree line (trees above 8ft) in order to camp per the Forest Service regulations. I will be taking along my new camping hammock to help with the issue of finding flat ground for a tent.

Drool worthy pictures to come after the trip!

Utah Adventures Part 2

“May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome and dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds.” 

-Edward Abbey

 Ah, snow. There is something to be said for four seasons, and having the chance to enjoy snow for a few months. It freshens up the leafless world, brings a spirit of fun to the cold weather and enables a variety of outdoor activities. I love having a good snowball fight (complete with battlements of course!) and sledding, but I especially love skiing. Whether it is observing the sights while plugging through the woods cross country, or the exhilaration and focus of steering downhill, it is a great way to get outside. I had the opportunity to ski for a day with my sister while visiting Utah in December. It was my first time downhill skiing in almost 7 years, but I was amazed to have my skills come back in the course of an hour. I forgot how much I enjoyed it, and how successful I felt after the challenge of a long run down the mountain.

While visiting Utah, my sister also introduced me to a new sport involving snow- snowshoeing. Although I had strapped on a pair in the past, walking around my yard didn’t prepare me for the experience of hiking while in the mountains wearing snowshoes.

After an intro course on the Bench Trail before work one morning, I got the real deal on a weekend hike. Breaking free of the inversion in the valley we headed to the Willow Heights Trail located outside of Salt Lake City in Big Cottonwood Canyon- getting there involves a drive up to 8,000 feet, essentially doubling the starting elevation. As I learned throughout the course of my visit to Utah, almost everything my sister and brother-in-law do for fun involves pain. Getting out the car, I could feel the difference in the altitude, and as we prepared for the hike I wondered what I had gotten myself into.

The trail is slightly less than 2.5 miles round trip, and leads to a large meadow with a frozen lake. Getting there requires a steep climb of ~600 feet, which had my calves and lungs burning, and my pace lagging. At the top the hill, I was rewarded (as is almost always the case after a strenuous hike) with a gorgeous view of breathtaking, snow-covered mountains. The combination of sunshine and exercise made for an enjoyable jaunt around the lake, even though the wind was stiff.

Although the approach the lake had been tough, the descent back to the car was enjoyable. I was able to take in my surroundings more, and noticed a variety of animal tracks crisscrossing the snow. The sounds around me were muffled by the snow except for the whistle of the wind and the crunch of my snowshoes. The sun streaming through the aspens almost felt tangible, as if I could reach out and touch an individual sunbeam.

The combination of the stunning view while crossing a pristine sea of snow didn’t feel like a workout, but instead inspired me to be as quiet as the things around me, and take in the beauty of the moment. Simple colors of blue, green and white came together to create a masterpiece. Sometimes a simple scene is the most complex sight of all when you take the time to give it a good look!

Utah Adventures Part 1

“All my life through, the new sights of nature made me rejoice like a child” – Marie Curie

Greetings from snowy Utah! I just finished visiting the Beehive State for the first time in my life, and I loved it!

Now when a lot of people think of Utah, they think of a big salty lake. I have to admit that’s the thought that popped into my head as well. After visiting my sister and brother-in-law, I have discovered that there is so much more.

My first sight of the beauty of Utah was out the airplane window. It was almost sunset, and the snow-covered mountains were highlighted against a gloriously blue sky. Although the weather hovered around a balmy 15 degree average, I still managed to explore a variety of the outdoor offerings.

Most memorable was a trip to Moab to see the famous rock formations of Arches National Park. 

Upon arriving, we paid our fee, and stopped at the visitor’s center to pick up a Junior Ranger booklet. Although designed for kids, they often have activities that will help deepen your experience of the park, and it’s a fun way to learn more about the local animals and area (plus, I figure, until I can become a real NPS ranger, I’ll at least be a junior ranger with a cool pin! :P).

We then drove up the road a bit, saw the famous Balanced Rock, and stopped at the trail for North and South Window. It was a very nice walk, about 1 mile around the formation. The ranger later told us, that although arches and windows were labeled differently, they are formed the same way, and only contrast in name.

A little further down the road was the trailhead for Delicate Arch- symbol of Utah and a gorgeous hike. After strapping on our yak-traks and micro-spikes to deal with the 8” of partially frozen snow, we began our approach. The trail is one of the longer hikes in the park, and involves some uphill climbing, but is well worth the effort. It is about 1.5 miles to the arch (making for a 3 mi. round trip), passing petroglyphs and the cabin of the first pioneers to the area.

It is almost impossible to describe the beautiful sight of the arch with its red rock highlighted by the cloudless blue sky and white snow. The contrast of colors made for some beautiful pictures, even with just an IPhone handy. If you want a closer look at the arch, it is possible to follow the edge of the slope and stand beneath the formation- just watch your step!

It was an awesome experience to have, and the interpretive displays at the visitor’s center were helpful in understanding more about the pioneers to Utah and the Moab area. If you are looking for a bite to eat after a peaceful hike through the park, I highly recommend the Moab Diner! I hope you all get the chance to see the sights of Arches National Park!